In this second section of the history of perfume, you will learn about the most important facts and curiosities about perfume and the art of making it.
This article is divided into different subchapters to facilitate reading and to go directly to the interesting parts.
Antiquity
4000 B.C. to 3000 B.C.: Perfume was used as an offering to the Gods in most ancient civilizations, as it was believed to sublimate and deify the body. From Egypt to Greece, "perfumes" did not exist as such; both flowers, aromatic plants, and resins were raw materials dedicated to the worship of the Gods.
The first perfumery in the world was discovered on the island of Cyprus, in the Mediterranean Sea.
3000 B.C. onwards: Egyptians used perfumes as a status symbol for the wealthy and as part of the mummification of pharaohs. Ancient perfume recipes were found in their temples.
At a time when Egypt traded spices and resins with the Near East, India, and Arabia, perfume was also part of daily hygiene. Frankincense and myrrh were the main ingredients in fragrances of the time.
2000 B.C.: The first perfumer in history is recorded: Tapputi, from Babylon. She used to distill flowers, oil, and other aromatic compounds, filter them, and put them back in the alembic* many times.
Romans and Greeks: Pliny the Elder (Roman philosopher and army commander) recorded that rose-scented water was used to mask bad odors in public places. They created blown-glass containers to store perfumes.
The fall of the Roman Empire in 5 A.D. meant that craftsmanship was only saved through trade with the East, and thus, it survived throughout the Dark Ages. Like the Egyptians, the Greeks used perfume in religious rituals and as part of daily life, as it was also accessible to the common people, who used it in wedding and funeral ceremonies, and at births.
From the 6th to the 19th Century
Middle Ages: Islamic cultures contributed to the development of perfumery in the East by perfecting the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introducing new raw materials.
With the rise of Islam, Muslims began to use perfumes in daily life. In Islamic culture, the use of perfume has been documented since the 6th century and is considered a religious duty. Ibn Sina (Muslim physician and chemist) pioneered the process of extracting oils from flowers through distillation. This process is still used today.
Europe: Under Arab influence and knowledge, perfumery arrived in Europe in the 14th century through the Crusaders, who brought raw materials and perfumery techniques from the East.
There was a belief that perfumes had healing and disinfectant properties, which was reflected during epidemics: the upper classes wore a perfume ball to protect themselves from the diseases of the time.
1371 The first alcohol-based fragrance in history: made during the reign of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary and known as "Hungary Water."
France from the 14th century: France became the European center of perfumery, especially Grasse, which today is the world capital of perfume.
During the Renaissance, perfume was used as the main substitute for daily hygiene among the European upper class. Great explorers brought new raw materials from America and India, with queens and courtesans vying for perfumers' recipes.
The introduction of lighter cologne fragrances made them accessible to a wider audience. Scented gloves gained popularity in the 17th century in France. King Louis XV of France loved perfume so much that he demanded a new perfume for each day of the week. During his reign, the court was known as "the perfumed court." Louis XV perfumed his skin, clothes, and furniture.
England 16th century onwards: during the reigns of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I, all public places were perfumed, as bad odors were not tolerated. However, dirt was abundant among men and women, who overused fragrances. The ladies of the time distilled perfumes in the alembic and took great pride in creating perfumes.
Age of Enlightenment: in 1709, Italian perfumer Johann-Antoine Farina created the first alcohol-based eau de cologne. It was named after the German city of Cologne.
The first major Parisian houses began to establish themselves, producing perfumes for more refined tastes.
Napoleonic Era: the use of more subtle fragrances became fashionable; perfumes were no longer in style. Women rejected overly strong oils and perfumes; having a perfumed handkerchief in hand was common. Meanwhile, the English regularly used "perfumed baths."
Russia from the 19th century: Russian perfume manufacturing grew during the 19th century, and perfume production was a planned economy during the Soviet era.
19th Century and Modern Era
The Italian regions of Sicily and Calabria and the French region of Grasse were already cultivating aromatic plants for perfumery in the 18th century. These three regions remain the primary European destination for raw materials, trade, and design.
French Revolution: during the revolution of the early 19th century, French society turned to luxury, which, thanks to trade liberalization, made France an international fashion giant. Some of the houses from that era still exist today: Guerlain, Molinard, and Bourjois.
Modern Perfumery: it can be said that modern perfumery began in the early 20th century, when it became a global phenomenon. The evolution of tastes and the development of synthetic essences with the innovation of perfume bottles with atomizers led perfumery to where it is today. Perfume is no longer just for the rich and royalty.
A great deal of responsibility for this advance goes to François Coty, who revolutionized the industry and understood the important role that presentation played. It was he who turned perfume into a true luxury product.
In 1921, Coco Chanel launched the most famous perfume in the world, Chanel No. 5, while Guerlain introduced Shalimar in 1925. An equally famous perfume.
The Rise of Designer Brands: the 20th century saw the birth of numerous designer brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and Estée Lauder, which still dominate the fashion market today. Thanks to Coco Chanel and globalization, these brands branched out of Europe and had a great impact in the United States. It was during this period that haute couture and perfumes became associated, largely inspired by Hollywood's profile.
Between the 50s and 60s: Perfume became democratized with the birth of Eau de Toilette: lighter and easier-to-wear fragrances.
Patchouli became very prominent in the 60s with the Hippies, however, haute couture houses remained outside of these trends.
From the 70s to the 2000s: some say these 30 years were the golden age of perfumery, when there was not yet an adequate distinction between niche and designer brands. Perfumes like Yves Saint Laurent - Kouros and Dior - Poison are still worn by millions of people today.
Perfume advertisements with an underlying concept never seemed as important as they were then and remain relevant today.
From the 2000s to today: The 21st century witnessed a huge change in perfumery, which restricted or completely prohibited certain raw materials. Niche and artisan perfumery are still relatively young, but they play a very important role in today's market.
Due to intense market competition, a certain decline in the quality and innovation of perfumes has been noted. During the 2010s, perfume clone brands flooded the market, bringing us to today.
Currently, perfume is considered a basic in the beauty world; some people have only one perfume that seems to be their signature, and others have a fragrance for every occasion.
As for niche perfumery, it is a field that has developed greatly in recent years worldwide, making the concept increasingly relevant and attracting enthusiasts who collect these types of perfumes, considered a true olfactory art.
Conclusion
If you are bored with current perfume trends, you can always research a bit of perfume history and explore the world of scents from the past. It's interesting to discover its roots, how perfumery developed, and what traditions remain to this day.
*Alembic: Apparatus used for the distillation of liquids through an evaporation process. (aragon.es)